Printing
Temperature:

Notes:

• You can also experiment between 230°C - 260°C until ideal print quality is achieved.
• If parts seems to be weak, increase the printing temperature. PETG achieves maximum strength at around 255°C
• Layer cooling fan depend on the model being printed. Large models do not generally require cooling but parts/area with short layer times (small details, tall and thin, etc.) may need some cooling, about 15% is usually enough, for extreme overhangs you can go up to a maximum of 50%.
• Set your print bed temperature to approximately 65°C (hotter for the first few layers if possible). If further bed adhesion is requires, keep increasing the bed temp by 5°C until it improves.
• PETG doesn’t need to be squeezed onto your heated bed, you want to leave a slightly larger gap on the Z axis to allow more room for the plastic to lay down. If the extruder nozzle is too close to the bed, or previous layer it will skim and create stringing and build-up around your nozzle. We recommend starting off moving your nozzle away from the bed in 0.02mm increments, until there is no skimming when printing.
• Print on glass with glue stick or you favorite printing surface.
• Best practice before printing any PETG material is to dry it before using (even if new), dry at 65°C for at least 4 hours. If possible, dry for 6-12 hours. Dried PETG should last for about 1-2 weeks before needing to redry.
• If print is too stringy, also try under-extruding a bit. PETG can be sensitive to over extrusion (blobbing etc.) – if you’re experience this, just bring in the extrusion setting on the slicer ever-so-slightly each time until it stops.
• No raft. (if the print bed is not heated, consider using brim instead, 5 or more mm wide.)
• 30-60mm/s print speed